NOTHING COULD BE FINER
One of our favorite post-Thanksgiving activities is to take a drive deep into North Carolina’s soaring mountains, where the season comes alive around every bend in the road. Whether it’s using Asheville as a great base or heading into the mountains for overnights and more, it’s easy to catch the spirit--and maybe even a snowflake or three.
Originally publihsed in AAA Home & Away
December in the Big City
Asheville is an ideal place to start, thanks to a thriving downtown and several destination resorts that really get into the holiday spirit. Staying in downtown Asheville, which is decked out with lights and decorations, is a delight come December.
A variety of inns and bed-an-breakfasts beckon this time of year with colorful wreaths on the doors, flickering candles in the windows, and a warming fire and hearth--with aromatic green garland of course--inside.
Among the choices in Asheville is the Inn on Montford, which stands out thanks to it’s location in the Montford Historic District residential neighborhood, which is within walking distance of downtown. Built in 1900 by noted Asheville society architect, Richard Sharp Smith (who also helped design Biltmore House and Biltmore Village), the sprawling house serves as a Christmas canvas for owners Ron and Lynn Carlson.
The Inn has four spacious guestrooms and a huge five-room, secluded third-floor suite. The Carlsons opened a carriage house called Griffin Cottage, which contains another three luxury suites. All rooms feature fireplaces and modern amenities, such as high-speed Internet for checking-in with Santa.
Ron says the new suite on the second floor of Griffin Cottage--called the Cloisters--may be the ultimate Asheville holiday haven. Relax by the fireplace, soak in the whirlpool tub, enjoy a re-run of How the Grinch Store Christmas on the plasma TV, and head out to a private balcony to take a look at the tallest Norway Maple in all of North Carolina or look for Rudolph up in the starry sky.
Other possibilities for a decked-out December stay in downtown Asheville include: 1889 Whitegate Inn & Cottage, the Inn on Main Street; and Haywood Park Hotel (if you’d like more of an upscale hotel experience). To stay closer to Biltmore Estate, check out Biltmore Village Inn or 1891 Cedar Crest Inn.
Visitors will dine well, with lots of creative hot soups and local ingredients coming into play at restaurants such as Early Girl Eatery, Oliver & Annabelle’s in the bustling Grove Arcade Public Market (also great for shopping), and Laurey’s. Grove Park Inn and Biltmore Estate also feature highly rated restaurants.
Downtown Asheville comes alive in December, thanks to a wide array of options that can include decorated city streets, Christmas Eve for the Animals at the Western North Carolina Nature Center, and a Victorian Christmas Celebration at the Smith-McDowell House Museum (the oldest surviving structure in Asheville). Nearby Biltmore Village and the Blue Ridge Parkway’s Folk Art Center provide an array of holiday-oriented offerings. Those driving to various Asheville attractions generally don’t have to worry about snow in and around the city, which sits in a bowl and rarely gets blanketed like the surrounding mountains.
Biltmore Estate and Grove Park Inn
Just outside downtown, Biltmore Estate and The Grove Park Inn beckon with yuletide decorations and events that even Scrooge would enjoy. With a variety of offerings and decorations, Christmas at Biltmore Estate runs from early November to early January. The Candlelight Christmas Evenings are among the many highlights.
“As beautiful as Biltmore House is during the day, it’s really magical at night,” says Cathy Barnhardt, floral displays manager. “A feeling of peace and serenity falls over you when you explore the house by candle and firelight. It’s easy to imagine you’re one of George Vanderbilt’s guests and will soon be retiring to one of those lovely rooms upstairs to wait for Christmas morning.”
Barnhardt says this time of year is actually Biltmore’s busiest season. This year’s theme is Family Traditions.
The Grove Park Inn offers A Grove Park Inn Holiday from late November to late December (featuring varied events and displays), as well as the incredibly popular Annual National Gingerbread House Competition (the 13th version runs from November 8 to January 15).
“Some families use the competition to kick off their holiday and set the tone for the season,” says Aaron Morgan, executive pastry chef.
Of course, great holiday packages at The Grove Park Inn and the Inn on Biltmore Estate make a stay for one or more nights quite appealing.
For an ideal daytrip out of Asheville, head to historic Hendersonville and the Village of Flat Rock. Conveniently located less than an hour south of Asheville, the area’s Home for the Holiday theme abounds with more than 60 holiday activities that include the Holiday Tour of Historic Inns; a Christmas parade; the Blue Ridge Christmas Celebration; and more.
A Sunny Winter Wonderland
With the “big city” sojourn complete, it’s time to hit the road. Whichever direction you choose, heading for the mountains will enhance the holiday mood on and off the highway. With The Inn at Wintersun, you don’t have to drive very far (about 15 minutes to the southeast) to find a country charmer that takes holiday decorating to another level. Owners Judy Carter and Susan Sluyter have turned the 10-year-old Inn at Wintersun into a wonderland for any season, thanks to a stunning indoor and outdoor setting.
After a drive up a quiet dirt lane, the Inn reveals itself atop a wooded hillside. Subdued holiday lighting and greenery beckon guests up the hill and, once past a small waterfall and inside the inn, the mood continues. Several huge Christmas trees dot the spacious public areas, while each accommodation option celebrates the holidays with additional touches.
The main floor’s large Wintersun Suite & Spa is a great splurge (or early Christmas present), with a welcoming four-poster bed, marble fireplace, and private spa that features a huge whirlpool tub and its own fireplace. Upstairs, four equally elegant rooms have their own fireplaces and upscale appointments, as well as wonderful views of the sometimes snow-covered slopes.
After a gourmet breakfast that meant we’d be skipping lunch, we found it tough to head back down the curving drive, but other completely different Holidays diversions awaited west of Asheville. If your ideal December includes staying in a mountain cabin and maybe even cutting your own Christmas tree to take home, then Boyd Mountain Log Cabins can accommodate.
Oh Christmas Tree (and Log Cabin)
From the unique accommodations to convenient things to see and do on the property and nearby, Boyd Mountain Log Cabins offer a great getaway. Situated in the Maggie Valley area of western North Carolina (about an hour west of Asheville), the cabins are a labor of love for owners and operators Dan and Betsy Boyd.
They bought the land in 1972, when it was mostly pasture. No longer rangeland, the sprawling grounds now include gardens, stocked fishing ponds (prettily frozen in winter), and a very popular Fraser fir Christmas tree farm.
The six historic log cabins--which are all 150-200 years old and were relocated to Boyd Mountain--are certainly the main draw of this 130-acre paradise. Each cabin features a modern kitchen (including a dishwasher), heat and air conditioning, a fireplace, washer and dryer, cable TV and VCR, telephone, one or more porches with rocking chairs, a BBQ grill, and pure mountain spring water (from the top of Boyd Mountain) for the kitchen and bathrooms. The cabins are spaced around the property, offering privacy and pretty views.
We stayed in the two-story Long Branch Cabin, which Dan and Betsy restored and brought to Boyd Mountain from Whittier back in 1995. Highlights of our two nights there included numerous fires in the stunning stacked rock fireplace and quiet nights asleep in the downstairs bedroom (there are two more upstairs). The front porch overlooks a fishing pond, while the side deck faces a ridge filled with hundreds of Christmas trees.
Mid-November to mid-December offers an ideal time to visit, thanks to a Choose n’ Cut Christmas tree program that features top Fraser firs ranging in size from 5 to 18 feet. Be sure to ask about how kids can stay and ski free during ski season (excluding holidays) through a deal with nearby Cataloochee Ski Area, where snowsports can bring the holidays spirit alive.
Along with Long Branch, other cabins that have been restored and moved over the years include the two-story Cosby Cabin (from Cosby, Tennessee); the Millstone Cabin (from Asheville); and the Shelton Laurel Cabin, which came from Madison County’s Shelton Laurel community and once served as the Boyds’ guesthouse.
Other Places to Cut Z’s (and a Tree)
As we drove around the area, we discovered that the mountains west of Asheville offer many other great places to stay, as well as many Christmas tree farms. Jackson County combines cutting some Z’s and cutting your own tree. For the seventh straight year, the O’ Christmas Tree program offers discounted accommodations at a variety of places (18+ last year), plus the chance to choose-and-cut your own Fraser fir at several different tree farms in the county. Jackson County also features Dillsboro’s annual Festival of Lights and Luminaires (the first two weekends of December), Great Smoky Mountain Railroad’s Polar Express dining trains; and Tom Sawyer Christmas Tree and Reindeer Farm in Glenville (and, yes his real name is Tom Sawyer).
Other accommodations include: Balsam Mountain Inn (new innkeepers have this 50-room mountain getaway in fine form for the holiday); Sourwood Inn (ask about Sassafras Cabin); Bent Creek Lodge (the lodge’s separate Luhn House is alluring); The River Lodge (ask for the Hideaway Suite); and The Chalet Inn (where the Smoky Mountains meet Europe).
While these places might not offer a Christmas tree farm on their property, they’re sure to know of one just down the road--so you can head home with more than just holiday spirit!
Before You Go
*1889 Whitegate Inn & Cottage: 800-485-3045 or 828-253-2553; www.whitegate.net.
*1891 Cedar Crest Inn: 800-252-0310 or 828-252-1389; www.1891cedarcrestinn.com.
*1900 Inn on Montford: 800-254-9569 or 828-254-9569; www.innonmontford.com.
*Asheville Convention & Visitors Bureau: 800-280-0005 or 828-258-6102; www.exploreasheville.com (for specific Holidays pages, visit www.exploreasheville.com/holidays.asp).
*Balsam Mountain Inn: 800-224-9498 ir 828-456-9498; www.balsammountaininn.com
*Bent Creek Lodge: 877-231-6574 or 828-654-9040; www.bentcreeknc.com.
*Biltmore Estate/Inn on Biltmore Estate: 877-324-5866 or 828-225-1333; www.biltmore.com.
*Biltmore Village Inn: 866-274-8779 or 828-274-8707; www.biltmorevillageinn.com.
*Boyd Mountain Log Cabins: 828-926-1575; www.boydmountain.com.
*The Chalet Inn: 800-789-8024 or 828-586-0251; www.chaletinn.com.
*The Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa: 800-438-5800 or 828-252-2711; www.groveparkinn.com.
*Haywood Park Hotel: 800-228-2522 or 828-252-2522; www.haywoodpark.com
*Henderson County Travel & Tourism (Hendersonville and the Village of Flat Rock): 800-828-4244 or 828-693-9708; www.historichendersonville.org.
*The Inn at Wintersun: 888-628-1628 or 828-628-7890; www.innatwintersun.com.
*Inn on Main Street: 828-645-4935; www.innonmain.com.
*Jackson County’s “O’ Christmas Tree” program: 800-962-1911 or 828-586-2155; www.mountainlovers.com.
*The River Lodge: 877-384-4400 or 828-293-5431; http://www.riverlodge.com/.
*Sourwood Inn: 828-255-0690; www.sourwoodinn.com.
*Two websites offer seasonal updates on where you can choose and cut your own Christmas tree in North Carolina: www.ncfarmfresh.com and www.ces.ncsu.edu/wncagpotions./2005/counties/index.html.