THE SWAG, IN WAYNESVILLE, NC,
SHOWS NATURE AT ITS FINEST
At the top of a winding 2 1/2-mile gravel drive, The Swag was originally a family retreat. Owners Dan and Deener Matthews hosted many guests over the years and their hospitality became well-known, but they didn't officially open as an upscale country inn until 1982. They now host visitors from mid-April to mid-November.
The resort has evolved into a getaway where nature is a major amenity. It starts with the property's location next to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In fact, a mile-long split rail fence is all that separates The Swag from the national park, which will celebrate its 75th anniversary in 2009.
Originally published in Atlanta Journal-Constitution
With the park and the inn's sprawling 250 or so acres, guests can take miles of hiking trails, and see lots of wildlife when they're not enjoying the many human-made amenities back at The Swag. The long list includes: a huge lending library; a common area for frequent guest lectures and other activities; a full-size racquetball court; a croquet lawn; a badminton court; and a gift shop where guests can take home many of the furnishings Deener Matthews has found for the rooms.
The Swag experience is all about the people and the places. Deener, Mindy Wood and Jane Giese are innkeepers who seem to anticipate a guest's every wish. Dan retired as rector of Trinity Wall Street in 2003, where he helped with New York City's spiritual needs after 9/11.
He and Deener can now often be found at the communal dinner table, sharing stories about meeting Desmond Tutu, Queen Elizabeth, Warren Buffet (who attended high school with Deener), and many others. George Carey, the former Archbishop of Canterbury, and his wife Eileen (now Lord and Lady Carey) are also friends (and often guests) of the Matthews.
From the gardener to the cleaning staff, other Swag employees are equally hospitable. This season, new executive chef Bryan Kimmett and sous chef William Ham have raised the bar of The Swag's cuisine at every meal.
Accommodations at The Swag range from far-from-standard "rooms" to entire cabins, all upscale rustic, all built from recovered logs and other woodwork that's mostly from 17th and 18th century buildings. For this season, there are 15 possibilities for accommodations.
Danny's Room is typical of the less-expensive options and is ideal for those on a budget. It has a high-beamed vaulted ceiling, queen bed, wet bar (which is in all 15 options), steam shower and a great view.
The Rock Room is a great mid-range choice, with a fireplace, stone terrace, king bed, wet bar, separate reading area, and spacious steam shower. Laurin's Room provides a similar experience.
Those looking to splurge have many unique choices. Mindy and Jane can help choose the "right" one, but veteran visitors know to book their preferred option early.
Newly renovated last year with the addition of a steam shower, soaking tub, sauna, and outdoor shower — The Woodshed is already a popular choice. The stand-alone suite's back porch overlooks the park.
For this season, The Cabin received a major upgrade. There's a large living room and fireplace, wet bar, two bathrooms, steam shower, two-person dry sauna, double whirlpool tub, and a private deck with an outdoor shower and the first outdoor fireplace for the resort.
The rooms and nature are huge draws, but the rest of The Swag experience is equally memorable.
The food and new chefs are drawing rave reviews from both the Matthews and returning guests.
Highlights of a dining experience at The Swag have to include: breakfasts that frequently offer homemade biscuits and Southern-style grits; gourmet lunches that can be packed for backpacking, brown bagging, or in a picnic hamper; and convivial dinners that start with creative hors d'oeuvres (often served outside) and move on to appetizers, salads, entrees, and desserts in The Swag's Main House. Those in-the-know might even get Dan to take a turn at his grandfather's player piano (which came with dozens of tunes).
Kimmett's "comfort food with a twist" is also receiving rave reviews at several special Swag dining traditions. The Wednesday gourmet picnic lunch atop Gooseberry Knob (weather permitting) goes way beyond burgers and dogs — a recent menu included bison burgers, rabbit sausage, and creative salads, sides, and desserts. The long-time Thursday Barbeque and Sunday Buffet Brunch also benefit from Kimmett's new offerings.
Those who just want a taste of The Swag can call ahead for dinner reservations or any of the three special meals. (First-time visitors should know that The Swag is in a dry county, a bring-your-own-beverage place.)
The average stay at the resort is between two and three nights, though veteran visitors say it really does take three nights to truly get into the swing of The Swag.
IF YOU GO
Getting there
The Swag is about 175 miles from Atlanta, about a 3 1/2-hour drive. The closest airport is in Asheville, which is about 45 minutes from The Swag and is served by direct flights from Atlanta by Delta Air Lines.
About the resort
The Swag is at 2300 Swag Road, off Hemphill Road and US 276, near Waynesville, N.C. 1-800-789-7672, www.theswag.com. This season, a stay at The Swag for two (including accommodations, all three meals, and activities) runs $430-$750 per night (additional people in the larger accommodations pay a reduced nightly rate).
Most visitors never leave The Swag once they arrive, though some do include a visit to Asheville, www.exploreasheville.com, and The Biltmore estate, www.biltmore.com. As a service to guests, The Swag sells advance tickets for Biltmore tours, which are highly recommended.